This is one of my most popular seafood dishes for summer clients’ dinner parties – light, fresh, healthy, and a taste of the Island with mussels, clams, and a mild white fish. You can make the base, as I call it, early in the day, and just before guests or friends arrive, cook the fish and shellfish in less than 10 minutes. Often made with hearty chunks of cod, halibut, or striped bass, the local tautog, a meaty yet tender and sweet fish, shines in this Italian flavored broth. But if you have fluke, black sea bass, or striper (without the skin), feel free to try it with one of those instead. The fish, almost any I use, tends to cook in about 5 minutes or less, and is best not cooked a minute past when it’s done if possible. Since it can get a little crowded in the pot, I often cook the littlenecks and mussels in a separate sauté pan with a lid.
Serves 4
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 whole leek, cut in half lengthwise, and sliced thinly (about 2 cups)
• ½ medium fennel bulb, cored and either sliced or diced
• 1 tablespoon garlic, finely minced
• ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
• ¾ cup white wine
• 2 cups clam broth (can be purchased from the fish market)
• 1 cup chicken stock
• 2 to 3 fresh tomatoes, diced
• 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves, chopped (if available)
• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 12 cherrystone clams, scrubbed well
• ½ pound mussels (16 or so), rinsed, beards removed
• 1 to 1½ pounds tautog (or other local mild white fish), cut into large chunks, about 2- to 3-inches wide
• Chopped fresh parsley for garnish
• Halved red and yellow cherry tomatoes for garnish
1. Heat a Le Creuset or wide soup pot on medium and add the oil, leek, and fennel. Sauté until soft, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and stir another minute more until fragrant. Add the wine and boil for a minute. Add the clam broth, stock, tomatoes, and herbs, and bring back to a boil. Simmer, covered, over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, just until flavors mingle and fennel is cooked. Taste and add salt, if needed, and some pepper.
2. At this point you can store the base in the fridge, if doing ahead. Wash the shellfish, cut the fish and cover with plastic, and store both in the fridge.
3. When ready to cook, place the base over low heat to begin warming it. Add 1 cup of water or wine to an empty skillet with a lid and bring to a boil. Add the littlenecks and mussels and cook until they open, about 5 to 8 minutes. Bring the cioppino base liquid to a boil. Place the fish fully in the liquid and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, covered, reducing the temperature to medium or medium-high. Try not to stir while cooking, so the pieces stay intact, but do gently push the fish down to keep it submerged if needed. Check once to make sure it is not at a rolling boil and then check again after about 4 minutes to see if the fish is cooked. The fish is done when it is white and a fork goes through easily.
4. Gently remove the pieces of fish, to keep them whole, to four pasta or wide soup bowls. Spoon liquid around with fish, including some leeks and fennel in each bowl. Divide the mussels and clams between the bowls. Garnish with parsley and cherry tomatoes.
