For me, the first crookneck yellow squash of the season goes straight into the stir-fry pan with the tail end of my sugar snap peas, along with a few shiitakes and sliced spring onions for an aromatic boost. I don’t like soggy or bland summer squash so I always use high heat to cook it. And with this weeknight stir-fry, made in a 12-inch nonstick stir-fry pan, the amount of vegetables (not too much) is just right to keep everything moving around the pan and cooking through in the same amount of time.

I use one of my finishing tricks – just a little bit of heavy cream and some shaved parmigiano — to bring everything together. They give the dish an incredible mouthfeel and just a tough of richness. But you could finish with a bit of tamari instead.

Serves 2

• 2 tablespoons neutral cooking oil
• 8 ounces summer squash (I used yellow crookneck), sliced and cut into small pieces
• 8 ounces sugar snap peas, topped and tailed, each cut into two or three pieces
• ½ cup sliced red spring onions or scallions
• 2 ounces shiitakes, stemmed and sliced
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons heavy cream
• ¼ to 1/3 cup shaved parmigiano (or a little less, grated)
• Chopped parsley or mint (optional)

1. In a 12-inch nonstick stir-fry pan, heat the oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add all of the vegetables and the salt and turn the heat to medium-high.

2. Cook, stirring frequently, until all the vegetables have taken on some nice browning and the onions are softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Don’t be afraid to turn up the heat a notch if the vegetables are not browning – you want them to cook quickly.

3. Drop the heat down to medium or medium low, add the heavy cream, stir, and remove the pan from the heat as it reduces and coats the vegetables. Stir in half of the parmesan.

4. Serve right away, garnished with the remaining cheese and the herbs (if using).