If there is one thing you take away from Cook the Vineyard today, I want it to be this (and yes, I know it’s an odd request): Please cook your summer squash – your crookneck, your zucchini, your patty pan, your whatever – with high heat.
And by high heat I mean stir-frying, grilling, roasting. Browning = delicious. Ever since I wrote my first cookbook (Fast, Fresh & Green), I’ve been preaching the gospel of cooking veggies with high heat – but especially veggies like summer squash that have a high water content.
I’m headed down this path again this summer (sorry!) after nabbing some local crookneck squash the other day, the first of the season from Morning Glory. (I got beautiful beets, onions, and freshly dug potatoes, too.)
Crookneck squash, with its seeds and soft flesh, is the poster child for overcooking (often served steamed or boiled). But it actually has two things going for it: firm skin and a great nutty flavor.
If you use that skin to your advantage (for sautés or stir-fries, slice the squash first and then cut the slices into small pie-wedge-shaped pieces so that each piece has some skin), the veggie will hold up well when bouncing around the pan. And bounce it should – if you crank up the heat, don’t overcrowd the pan, and keep the vegetables moving, you will have browned, delicious-tasting summer squash that is still somewhat firm.
Try that in this Summer Squash, Corn and Pearl Couscous with Coriander and Summer Herbs, a light vegetarian supper or substantial side dish that uses easy-to-cook pearl couscous (and lots of flavor from zest, herbs, onions and garlic) to turn a sauté into something more.
If you want an even simpler approach, try this Summer Squash Stir-Fry with Sugar Snaps and Parmesan. Everything goes into the pan at once, and just a little bit of heavy cream and parmesan at the end brings it all together. (Note the brown color — brown is good!)
And if you want a different flavor profile, try this Baby Squash Stir-Fry with Ginger, Garlic and Lime.
While I don’t recommend large slices of squash for sautés or stir-fries (slices will tend to smother each other and steam rather than brown), slices can be an advantage when grilling or roasting. The large surface area gives you more contact with the heat source. You can find the technique for grilled squash in this recipe for Grilled Toast with Whipped Lemon-Thyme Feta and Summer Squash.
But enough about squash! I used those red potatoes to make Crispy Smashed Potatoes for visitors over the weekend.
And the rest are going in Cod, Corn, Bacon and Leek Chowder with Fresh Thyme.
And speaking of fish soups, isn’t it time to make Chilmark Bouillabaisse? I think so!
Haven't done anything with my beets yet other than sauté some of the greens with garlic and ginger. But there are great techniques and recipes for cooking beets on cookthevineyard.com.
I'll see you on Instagram over a piece of Blueberry Crumble Coffee Cake. Be sure to follow us @cookthevineyard if you haven't already!