The hardest thing about this full-flavored soup is remembering to soak the cod. Though it’s good without, I find adding buckwheat groats (which need to soak overnight) makes it more substantial – something I look for in cold weather dishes. You could halve this, but because it freezes well, I always make the whole recipe.

Makes about 2 quarts

• 1 pound salt cod, soaked, poached, and shredded (for directions, see below)
• ¼ cup buckwheat groats, soaked overnight (optional)
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 medium leeks, whites only, quartered and sliced
• 1 small onion, peeled, quartered, and sliced
• ½ medium fennel bulb, diced
• 2 stalks celery, halved lengthwise and sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
• Pinch crushed red pepper
• Kosher salt
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 peeled tomatoes (fresh or canned), chopped

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the leeks, onions, fennel, and celery and cook, stirring until the vegetables soften, about 7 minutes. 

2. Add the garlic, crushed red pepper, and a pinch of salt. Cook until the garlic is soft, about 3 minutes. Add the bay leaves and tomatoes. Reduce heat and cook until the tomatoes release their juices and begin to concentrate, about 10 minutes. 

3. Add the groats (if using), the shredded cod, and about 5½ cups of water to cover. Bring the soup to a simmer and cook, stirring very occasionally, until the fish is very soft and the flavors meld, about 30 minutes, then serve.

Preparing Salt Cod

Store fish in the refrigerator as it will keep a very long time. It is best to allow 48 hours to soak the fish to rehydrate it before using. Cover it with cold water and refrigerate, changing the water several times. 

I usually very gently poach it. Place rehydrated fish in a deep pan, cover with cold water, then heat over low, never allowing the water to reach a simmer. Poach the fish until it softens and is flake-able. Expect this to take about 20 minutes. If the fish is still tough, cover the pan, remove it from the stove, and allow the fish to continue cooking in the cooling water. Once poached, the fish can be used in any of the recipes here or held in the refrigerator for 3 days.