You can use any size hard-shell clam for recipes that call for chopped clams. Off-Island, littlenecks are the easiest to come by, so I’ve written the recipes with them in mind, but adjust according to what you have. If you’ve gathered your own, Bert Fischer recommends scrubbing them thoroughly. If you bought yours, they will likely be cleaner, but you’ll still want to give them a good rinse and a half-hour soak in cold water. (Either way, never keep clams in a sealed plastic bag – they need to breathe.)

Yields about 1 cup chopped clams and about 1 cup clam broth

• 2 dozen littlenecks, rinsed then soaked
• ¼ cup dry white wine

1. Put the clams and wine in a pot with a lid. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook until the first clams open, about 5 minutes. As they open, transfer the clams to a bowl, continuing until all the clams have opened. Allow any stubborn holdouts to sit in the covered pot off the heat for another 5 or 10 minutes. Discard any that remain closed.

2. Shuck the clams (if desired) and ladle the broth into a container, leaving the dregs in the pan. If you don’t plan to use the clams right away, store them in the broth. They will keep in the refrigerator for at least 3 days.