This is a summer go-to at our house. I flavor the clam broth/poaching liquid according to my mood and use whatever fish is freshest. Sometimes I start off by rendering bacon or chorizo; other times I add olives or preserved lemons. Any meaty, white-fleshed fish will work: cod, halibut, sea bass, striped bass, red snapper, etc. (I find oily and dark-fleshed fish too strong tasting and avoid super delicate fillets.) The cooking time will vary according to your choice – just keep an eye on things and cook the fish until it is opaque and flake-able.
Serves 4
• 1 pound cod, halibut, or other meaty white fish fillet
• About 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 dozen clams, rinsed and soaked (to remove sand)
• ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons dry white wine
• About 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large leek, quartered lengthwise and sliced
• ½ large fennel bulb, diced
• 1 clove garlic, sliced
• A pinch crushed red pepper
• 12 cherry tomatoes, stemmed and halved
• 2–3 sprigs tarragon or other soft herb (optional)
1. Cut the fish into 4 equal pieces. Put them on a plate, season them with lemon zest, salt, and pepper then refrigerate.
2. Put the clams in a pot with a lid. Add a ¼ cup of wine, cover the pot, and bring the contents to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook until the first clams open, about 5 minutes. Transfer the clams to a bowl as they open, covering the pot in between. (Discard any clams that fail to open after 10 minutes.) Reserve the clams and the broth separately.
3. Meanwhile, combine the leeks and olive oil in a deep skillet. Heat over medium-low. Season the leeks with a little salt and sweat (cook without coloring) them, stirring occasionally until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the fennel, garlic, and crushed red pepper and continue cooking until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes.
4. Add the tomatoes and the leaves from one sprig of tarragon (if using) and cook, stirring from time to time, until the tomatoes are soft, about 7 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons of white wine and simmer until the pan is almost dry, about 5 minutes. (The recipe can be prepared to this point an hour or more ahead.)
5. Place the fish on the vegetables. Strain about a 1/2 cup of clam broth into the pan, taking care to leave the sandy dregs. Add enough water so there is about 2 inches of liquid (more if your fillets are particularly thick). Cover and simmer over medium heat until the fish becomes opaque at the edges, 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the thickness of your fish. Add the reserved clams. (I like to keep them in their shells because it’s pretty, but shucked also works.) Continue cooking until the fish is cooked through and the clams are warmed, about 3 minutes more depending on size.
6. Spoon the fish, clams, vegetables, and broth into bowls. Chop the remaining tarragon or other herb (if using), garnish each portion, then serve.
