Scallion pancakes are popular throughout China (and Korea). The dough is made with flour and hot water in the north. In Shanghai, they add a little pork fat to make their version extra crisp and flakey. I decided to go that way, but used duck fat instead. I created layers by folding the dough several times. I also added clams, which makes this snack even more delicious. Although it’s totally nontraditional, I found that spooning on a little creamy clam and scallion dip reinforces the flavors perfectly. The dip is also great with potato chips!
Makes 4 pancakes
• 12 clams, steamed and shucked, liquor reserved (or a heaping 1/2 cup of chopped clams plus 1 tablespoon clam juice)
For the pancakes:
• 3 tablespoons duck fat
• 5 medium scallions; whites thinly sliced (about ¾ cup); greens sliced and held separately (about ¾ cup); the rest reserved for the dip
• 1½ cups all-purpose flour
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus additional for seasoning
• Vegetable oil for frying
For the dip:
• About 6 tablespoons sliced scallion greens (see above)
• 6 tablespoons sour cream
• 1 teaspoon chopped dill
• Juice of ½ a lemon
• 1 tablespoon clam juice (or to taste)
• Freshly ground black pepper
1. Finely chop 8 clams (about 1/3 cup). Place them in a fine sieve set over a bowl and refrigerate for at least an hour. Hold the remaining clams in the clam liquor in a container. Cover and refrigerate to use in the dip.
2. Warm the duck fat over low heat. Remove the pan from the heat and add sliced scallion whites.
3. Combine the flour and a ½ teaspoon of salt in a food processor. Pulse to mix, then, with the motor running, stream in a ½ cup of hot water. Add the warm duck fat and scallions and process just until the dough comes together.
4. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Knead it until it is smooth and elastic, adding enough additional flour so it feels smooth and dry, not wet – about 3 to 5 minutes. Put the dough on a floured plate, cover it with a damp cloth, and set aside to rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes. (Alternatively, you can refrigerate the dough for up to 3 hours; bring the dough to room temperature before proceeding.)
5. Roll the dough out into a 10- to 12-inch oblong. Fold the dough in thirds like a letter: fold the top portion so that it covers a little over half the dough, then fold the bottom over the top. Rotate the dough so that the open sides are at the top and bottom and roll it out so it is once more 10 to 12 inches long, then fold it again like a letter. Rotate the dough another quarter turn and fold one side slightly past the midpoint once more, and the second side on top. Return dough to the plate, cover it with the damp towel, and allow it to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
6. Roll the dough out so it is again about 12 inches long. Scatter the drained clams and half the scallion greens over the dough, then fold the top third over the midpoint and the bottom third over that. Starting on either side, using your hands, tightly roll the dough into a log. Cut the log into 4 pieces. Put the pieces on a plate, cut-sides up, press each one down to flatten it, then cover them with plastic wrap and let them rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes but up to 8 hours.
7. Shortly before you plan to serve, roll the pancakes out thinly, about an 1/8-inch thick, then layer them on a plate, separating them with pieces of parchment paper. Return them to the refrigerator.
8. Make the dip. Mince the remaining sliced scallion greens. Mix them with the sour cream in a bowl.
9. Mince the reserved clams (about 3 tablespoons; save the liquor); add them to the bowl. Add the lemon juice, chopped dill, and 1 tablespoon clam juice. Mix well, taste, and adjust the seasoning with clam juice, lemon, and black pepper.
10. Heat about a ¼ inch of oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add a pancake. Fry until the first side is crisp and golden, about 3 minutes, then flip and fry the second side until it, too, is crisp and golden. Drain the pancake on a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat with the remaining pancakes. Cut each into wedges and serve with the scallion clam dip garnished with herbs if desired.
