Serves 4 as an hors d’oeuvre

In Japan a master chef considers not only how to cut the day’s catch but how to season it. Paper-salting is a technique that involves laying paper (typically handmade) between a filet and layers of salt. The flesh is protected, while the salt gently firms the fish by drawing moisture as it flavors it. Paper towels, while not as elegant as handcrafted sheets, work just as well. We like the ever-so-slightly cured fish absolutely plain. It is also good with pickled onion (see recipe below) or minced hot chili or both.

• About 1/3-pound fresh-caught bluefish
• About 3 tablespoons kosher salt

Trim the bloodline from the filet and remove the skin. Put a generous sprinkling of salt on a plate or in a pie tin. Lay a piece of paper towel on top, then place the fish on the towel. Cover the fish with another towel and finish with a final layer of salt. Put the plate in the refrigerator for an hour. Discard the paper and salt, slice the fish and serve.

This recipe was originally published with the article, Some Like it Raw.