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9.1.08

How it Works: Birding from the Ferry

It turns out that the ferry, in addition to being a place to get a really overpriced pretzel, is also a good spot for birding.

As Susan B. “Soo” Whiting, of Chilmark, points out in the book Vineyard Birds II (Vineyard Stories, 2007), which she co-authored with Barbara B. Pesch, “Several species of gulls and terns, cormorants, sea ducks, and migratory passerines and hawks, depending on the season, may be seen from the decks of the ferries.”

The Vineyard is a prime bird-watching location. We’re often the first landfall for many birds in the spring and the launching point for their trips south in the fall. And the beauty of observing from the ferry is that the boat actually takes you to the birds; you don’t have to be concerned about getting ticks or trespassing on private lands.

So what can you expect to see? The most common sightings would be the herring gulls or black-backed gulls that magically appear as soon as you toss some Cheetos in the air. (Soo actually advises against feeding gulls junk food – it’s no better for them than it is for us.)

Gulls are one of the few birds you’ll see all year-round from the ferry; crows are another. Sure, you’re used to seeing crows out in a field, but in the early morning you’ll often see flocks of them heading to the mainland and then returning late in the day.

West Tisbury artist Lanny McDowell, an avid birder and bird photographer, claims that one theory for this regular commute is that some crows want to take advantage of a more plentiful food supply on the mainland. The reason they don’t stay over there is the presence of great horned owls. Rather than be harassed at night by their natural enemy, the crows sleep on the Island, where the owls are not nearly as plentiful.

Generally speaking, the best bird watching is in the spring and fall, since this is when the birds are migrating and are at their most abundant. Soo points out that fall is particularly good, since birds tend to travel more inland when going north and hug the coast when migrating south. During these seasons, you’re apt to see several species of terns; any number of passerines, which include warblers, vireos, and swallows; hawks; kestrels – maybe even a bald eagle if you’re lucky.

Winter is also a good time for bird watching, assuming you don’t mind standing out on the deck in the cold. Lanny says one of his favorite birds – the razor-billed auk – can sometimes be seen flying down the Vineyard Sound in formation in the winter. They’re about the size of a football and look something like a penguin.

But for the casual observer on the ferry, Matt Pelikan, director of Island programs for The Nature Conservancy, suggests another approach to birding. “Instead of trying to identify a species,” suggests Matt, “watch their behavior – that’s really what’s most interesting. It’s fun to just watch birds being birds.”

Take the northern gannet, which can be seen from late fall to early spring. These birds have an enormous wingspan – five to six feet across. But what’s truly remarkable is watching them fish. They dive straight down like a torpedo from upwards of a hundred feet.

Another sight is sea ducks courting. “You don’t need the plumage to tell the males from the females,” says Matt. “The males are the ones throwing their heads back and vocalizing; rearing up in the water; flapping wings and generally displaying their prowess.”

Matt also suggests watching for the red-breasted mergansers in Vineyard Haven harbor. “Ten or fifteen of them will get in a row and herd bait fish in toward the jetty at the outer harbor. When the fish get trapped against the jetty, the feeding frenzy begins. It’s quite a sight.”

So put down the crossword puzzle. Get up on the deck. And get ready for the show.

Who needs snakes on a plane when you’ve got birds on a boat?